We fell in love with Evan’s wines a couple years ago, before the Insta-fame, before he was a well known entity and we had every faith that his wines were going to explode on the scene. They’re made incredibly well, managing to balance a wildness with enough of a narrative structure making them vivacious diplomats for those new to the ‘natty’ spectrum of the natural wine world.
This is a supremely fascinating wine wrought of Arneis and owing to the diabolical heat of the ‘17 vintage, the wine was on the struggle bus for a long-ass time. 9 months Evan watched the vat ferment at a glacial pace, all the while wondering if Mahlon 2017 was just never gonna make it. Faith is a deep part of winemaking, whether that takes the form of biodynamic devotion, Evan’s mix of naturalism, deep science and mystic Christianity or the simple decision to trust your must. The absolute feeling of free fall is hard to overstate but if you believe and allow the wine the time it needs to find its proper place you can end up with something truly spellbinding. ‘Mahlon’ is an edgy creature with a rascally spirit akin to the wild fermented foods of the far east like kimchi, pickled daikon and shoyu.