In our experience the most honest and expressive wines are the result of a winemaker’s efforts to harken back to a time of preindustrial traditions and grape growing practices. These sometimes ancient traditions are rooted in a connection with the natural world around them; be it the seasons, the soil or the stars. Whatever the label—organic, biodynamic, natural—these vignerons craft their wines in the image of what the nature around their farm will give them, often not concerned with what the “market” or modern tastes demands but rather what the locals in their village would recognize as true to place.
There is plenty of debate out there about what it means to be an “organic”, “biodynamic” or “natural” wine. Here is a brief take on how we consider these terms in the context of our shop.
Organic: In the context of wine, “organic” pertains to the grape-growing practices. Organic viticulture simply minimizes or eliminates the use of synthetic pesticides, fertilizers, herbicides, etc. within the confines of the vineyard. There are many certification bodies that govern the actual vineyard practices, each with their own unique regulations and costs. Many wines that we work with are not certified as organic though the grower-producer may very well use organic methods or even more rigorous personal limitations on synthetic chemicals. Remember, these small-time producers often cannot afford the costly certifications; it’s more important to you the producer than the piece of paper that they paid dearly for.
Biodynamic: Biodynamics is a holistic, ground-up approach to agriculture. Using biodynamics, winemakers regard the entire farm/vineyard as one, whole, living organism which must find its own balance, without the use of synthetic chemicals. It goes beyond just NOT spraying your vineyards with Roundup but rather what can be put back into the soil to nourish the vines and the surroundings as one living system. Biodynamics also has its governing bodies (most notably Demeter) but many producers incorporate the Biodynamic practices and principles that Rudolf Steiner set forth in the early 20th century without official certification.
Natural Wine: Possibly the most controversial banner of our day, the term “natural wine” really means nothing at all. There is no governing body or book of guidelines to making vin natural. In general, when we at the shop speak of natural wine we are talking about producers that work the vineyards without chemicals, they sometimes use biodynamic principles (sometimes not). They cultivate healthy grapes which they allow to ferment without the addition of commercial/industrial yeasts, color stabilizers, acid adjustments, etc. Basically, natural wines are those that haven’t been messed around with. Where organic wines stop at the cellar door, natural wine merely begins. It’s about the simplest and most honest expression of the terroir through the medium that we call wine.