Soon after placing our order for these wines (see previous post A Wine Epiphany), Mike managed to reach M. Da Ros via email to answer some of our questions. Thought you might all like to see what he as to say in his own words…
“Thank very much you for your interest in my work and wines. I answered your questions writing “I”, but note that I am nothing without my team, the ladies who work hard in the vineyards all year long, the harvest team… Regards, Elian
Read on for more…
{M.D.} How do you describe your role in the winemaking process?
{Da Ros} I do not work with an oenologist, I vinify all my wines by myself. The days before harvest I go in the vineyard and taste the grapes, sometimes I go 2-3 times a day, little by little images, sensations are popping up and the big lines of the vintage become clearer and clearer in my mind. The day of harvest I try to listen to my feelings and [make] the best decisions. Also, you have to be very rigorous, and devoted to what you are doing. Harvest is once a year, you have to be 100% dedicated. It is like maneuvering a big ship, you have 30 persons working (harvest team) and you have to take decisions one after another.
{M.D.} You’ve said that 8 hectares is the limit of what is humanly possible for one winemaker to farm biodynamically. Can you explain?
{Da Ros} What I said is a bit different. If a producer is working by himself, spreading biodynamics [preparations] by hand (back spray), 8 ha is the maximum he can do. Assuming that [preparations] have to be spread within 2 hours after being prepared, that you can work only a couple of days (fruit day, or roots day… according to moon calendar are only 2 or 3 days in a row), a man can treat roughly 2 ha per hour (with back spray). Over 8 hectares you need to be assisted either by machine (tractors, quad …) or by other people.
{M.D.} How do you feel about the article written by William Jefford about your winery?
(An article entitled “Elian Da Ros – A Question of Confidence” was originally published in Decanter’s December 2006 issue, describing the talent and confidence required for a winemaker to succeed in an appellation as seemingly insignificant as the Marmandais)
{Da Ros} I am very touched by the article, he described my work [well] and the challenges I have (or had) to face but also the pleasure to make wine where nobody expected it. I always believed in my homeland, I’ve bet on it. I stayed focused on that idea and built everything around to make my dream come true. But I will not use the word confidence, I will rather say that I am a man “with good will and with a pinch of insouciance” (un homme avec beaucoup de bonne volonté et une pointe d’insouciance, je suis peut être un peu fou !! qui sait?) Also if I understood the article at one point William Jefford talks about price (quadruple, triple..) but I never wanted to make expensive wines I want to make good wine…
{M.D.} What is different between making wine in Alsace and making wine in the Marmandais?
{Da Ros} The approach of vines and grapes is the same anywhere: hard and rigorous work in the vineyad and as [few] as possible unnecessary actions in the cellars. Here in Marmandais it is important to be very careful and focused on extraction. We have grapes full of tannin and the key point is to control the extraction to have a balance between fruit, freshness and tannin. On the other hand in Alsace the focus is on the [pressing] of the whites. In case of doubts [or] questions, I cannot rely on anyone (old man or other producers) to advise me, (in Alsace you have so many good winemakers), so sometimes I feel a little lonely. Hopefully I have good friends in other regions who I can talk to. AOC Côtes du Marmandais is not famous, which is both an advantage and a drawback… promoting and selling Marmandais wine is a challenge (nobody knows the AOC!!), but on the other hand all is possible, everything is to be built, people do not expect any thing precise and making wines in Côtes du Marmandais is a beautiful adventure!!
