What a treat it was to have the whole lineup open from Tenuta delle Terre Nere. It was fascinating to see how the wines seemed to come into focus over the course of several hours.  Each showed their own charm, though there were a couple of pleasant surprises.  The debut release of the “Cuvee delle Vigne Niche” really turned some heads in highlighting the Burgundian attributes of the carricante varietal.  Another debut, from the recently purchased “Santo Spirito” vineyard, showed a youthful vibrancy and a promising future.  The “Feudo di Mezzo” and “Prephylloxera” bottlings shared center stage, each wowing tasters with an acrobatic display of flavors and textures.

2008 Etna Bianco $20

A charming field blend of Carricante, Catarratto, Grecanico and Inzolia. A wonderful introduction to the house style. Vaguely Maconnais, though it surely needs some time to assert itself.

2007 “Cuvee delle Vigne Niche” Etna Bianco $36

This is 100% caricante made from 3 small vineyards “vigne niche”. This wine is partially barrel fermented and is somewhat shy now, though it is a true vin de garde.

2008 Etna Rosato $20

It’s not too late to enjoy a glass of rose on the porch before the summer winds to an end. This is a saignée of some of the estate’s younger vines, including some from the Guardiola vineyard.

2007 Etna Rosso (sold out)

This was the end of last year’s rosso.  We anxiously await the arrival of the 2008…

2007 Guardiola $50 (1.5L $95)

Touted as the highest red wine vineyard site in all of Europe (a staggering 900 meters above sea level), the ancient vines that dig deep into the volcanic ash and pumice of the tiny 2.1 ha parcel known as Guardiola are the pride and joy of the estate. The ripening of the nerello mascalese in this vineyard often takes place as late as the last 10 days of October which provides the foundation for the ultimate flavor and tannin concentration, something every Burgundian could only dream of! Dense and ripe with layers of mineral and smoke that will develop for years to come.

2007 Calderara Sottana $50

The home base of Tenuta delle Terre Nera is in the small township of Randazzo on the northern most slopes of the mighty Etna. The area is divided into small “contrade” or fractions that are traditionally inhabited by families of a particular decent or customary affiliation. In wine terms, the “Contrada Calderara” is the lowest altitude (still some 650 meters above sea level) of the single vineyard cru in the TTN family of land holdings. 11 ha in total this vineyard has tended to produce the most lively and approachable bottling of the estate with floral strawberry and soft, supple tannins.

2007 Santo Spirito $50

This is a new addition to the TTN family and promises to be one of the most hotly anticipated releases yet. The Santo Spirito vineyard is located adjacent, albeit a bit lower in altitude, to the acclaimed Guardiola cru. TTN has been working with a neighboring vigneron in this prized site for the past 3 years and when they had the chance to acquire the 1.2 ha property with 50-70 year old vines Marc de Grazia could not have been happier. A mere 5000 bottles were produced of this stunner.

2007 Feudo di Mezzo “Il Quadro delle Rose” $50

From the lowest vineyard to the highest we have seen the entire range of altitude extremities that Etna has to offer, now on to beloved middle ground. The Feudo di Mezzo is the elegant and oft overlooked Cinderella of the noble TTN family, often playing second fiddle to the more “popular” Guardiola. Just as in Burgundy and Piedmont the most prized parcels of land lie in the center of the slope, giving the old vines the best exposition to the sun along with the ability to dig deep into the many layers of subsoil. The name “Quadro delle Rose” or “parcel of roses” speaks volumes in its simplicity; this wine offers power and tension with grace and tact all at once. A wine for the ages.

2007 Prephylloxera “La Vigna di Don Peppino” $90 NET

The cult favorite. Extremely rare, extremely limited, extremely captivating. Enough said.