Whether the weather cooperates or not, we’re celebrating!
Ok, here is the debate… Which is better: that it’s the first day of spring or it was the last day of winter? An informal poll revealed that the latter is the winner! If you are anything like us, we were beginning to think that this winter would never end. We know that this is New England and anything can still happen, but the tide is turning and we are all looking forward instead of hunkering down in hibernation! You don’t want to be caught on one of the first beautiful spring days without a crisp white to sip on the balcony, porch,or window sill that you are pretending is one of the former. Perhaps you need a spicy red for the season’s inaugural grilling? Something to pair with the market’s first spring vegetables? Picnic in the park? We’ve got the wines for you! So many options and really, that is what spring is all about, new beginnings, new opportunities and new excuses to relax, have a good time and enjoy a great glass of wine. We look forward to seeing you tonight.
2007 Crossroads Winery Sauvignon Blanc, Marlborough, New Zealand
What country says springtime more than New Zealand? Perhaps it’s just me, but my mind immediately conjures images of lush rolling green hills, the freshest of produce, spring lamb and of course misty rain. Similarly, across the board New Zealand wines have a natural fresh vibrancy that smells and tastes of morning dew, sunshine and citrus. Crossroads Winery’s story begins in 1990 as a winery dedicated to expressing the best this land has to offer. Owned by husband and wife, Peter and Debbie Cutfield, the winery is committed to sustainable production. The viticulturalist (John van der Linden) is a larger than life figure who in addition to his work in the vineyards is a champion rugby player (the national sport of NZ) and has received many medals in surf lifesaving. The principal winemaker (Matthew Mitchell) studied at renowned wine school the University of Adelaide in Australia, also where Kerri received her Masters, so clearly he is a cool guy. This is a classically styled NZ Sauvignon Blanc with notes of passionfruit and grapefruit. They allow the wine to stay on the lees for six weeks, which gives a beautiful silky texture to the wine. Winemaker Matt loves to pair the wine with mussels cooked with sweet red onions with sun-dried tomatoes and feta, sounds good to me!
2004 I Clivi “Clivi Brazan” Collio Goriziano D.O.C., Italy
Ferdinando Zanusso is quickly becoming a legend. The vines of Friuli, located near the Slovenian border, achieved fame as early as 181 B.C. under the Romans before being destroyed by barbarians in the 4th century. A renaissance occurred in the 1500’s through the collapse of the Austrian empire in 1918. Enter Ferdinando in the 1990’s, a man dedicated to recapturing the character of the wine of this ancient land. He resurrected ancient, incredibly steep vineyard sites and truly lets history come to life through the wines. This is completely non-interventionist biodynamic winemaking; the land, the grapes and the climate tell the story they were telling 100 years ago. The soil is full of chalk and limestone, which impart an almond note and spicy licorice finish to the 100% tocai wine. The wine is left to its own devices and stays on the lees for a full 2 years, no fining or filtration is needed as the wine naturally stabilizes itself during this period. Only 8,000 bottles of this unique wine are produced and we are pleased and humbled to receive our allocation every year. I Clivi also produces another 100% tocai from the Galea vineyard, located slightly more inland and thus showing a fuller body and spicier character as well as a micro-production of verduzzo. Don’t miss your chance to taste a piece of history!
Zucchi, Lambrusco di Sorbara DOC, Modena, Italy
The wonders of the Po River valley are endless. Being Italy’s longest river and most important source of not only transportation but also for the cultivation of many of Italy’s oldest, unique traditions makes this river valley something truly special. This is the “butter belt”; the dividing line in Italy between the exclusive use of olive oil as the lipid of choice (south) and butter (central-north), and consequently the source of some of Italy’s richest dishes, i.e. Lasagne Bolognesi, tortelli di zucca, prosciutto, and of course Parmigiano-Reggiano. There is a great reason for Lambrusco, a wine that incorporates the grape by the same name though with many different localized clones, and that is to accompany these rich, cheese and meat filled delicacies. Lambrusco was made unfortunately famous as a bulk wine in the 1970’s when wine giant Riunite managed to ship over 11 million cases of this fizz to the US, underwritten by the well known Banfi family of Montalcino. That said, Zucchi represents artisanal quality, family production Lambrusco from the area of Sorbara, arguably the best sub-zone in the DOC. With 10 ha of land, estate bottling of only 120,000 bottles a year (a mere drop in the bucket compared to industrial Lambrusco) and organic viticulture, quality is the estate’s true passion. The Zucchi family turned to winemaking in the 1950’s and has since become locally known for great quality, and the people of Parma (Europe’s gastronomic epicenter) are very particular about food and wine. Zucchi also has projects that include a rare grappa from lambrusco as well as revitalizing the old tradition of “mosto cotto” or “cooked must”, a condiment used on anything from grilled meat to aged cheese, a unique and local treat!
2005 Martilde, “Nina”, Pinot Nero, Oltrepò Pavese, Lombardy
Martilde is a small husband and wife winery in the Oltrepò Pavese that is dedicated to making small production, organic wines that are typical to the region. After leaving the busy city life of Milan this couple has settled in with many family pets amongst the vines, 18 ha of them to be exact. Located in Rovescala the sandy, calceous-clay soils are typical and ideal for grape growing. The majority of Martilde’s wines are based on the local croatina grape called Bonarda once vinified, but there are also vines of Riesling, Malvasia, and Pinot Nero. “Nina” is just one of the family dogs and her tranquil demeanor has much to do with her being used for this wine, because it’s not “vivace” or fizzy! This is Martilde’s interpretation of pinot noir, a grape well known in the world made particular by the subtle climate and terroir of southern Lombardy. Berries from relatively young vines get vinified in stainless steel vats with a long fermentation for pinot noir (7-10 days) before a brief passage into large, neutral botti. It is a great light red wine; serve on a chill (if the weather ever warms up!) with your favorite spring/summer fare, from chicken to fish!
Domain Cousin-Leduc, “Le Cousin” Vieille Vigne Grolleau, Loire, France
The Loire Valley in North-West France is a hotbed for biodynamic viticulture as well as a region close to the hearts of us here at The Wine Bottega. The wines of the region are influenced by France’s longest river, the Loire, as well as the Atlantic Ocean to the west, creating a temperate if cool and damp climate. The soil is also very important, with major outcroppings of limestone on top of an ancient sea bed where you can easily find fossilized seashells in the overturned topsoil. Olivier Cousin is an eccentric man to say the least. On his tiny 12 ha farm outside of Angers he, with his wife, 3 children, and loyal plow horse Comtois, remain dedicated to the old school way of winemaking; that which incorporates no machines, pesticides, enzymes or selected yeasts, but rather it is as low-tech as possible. Olivier claims to be the first to have vinified this local grape varietal, grolleau, into a full red wine in a place where it’s usually insipid qualities have regulated it to that of strictly rose` production. With vines that average over 60 years in age, he has the best ability to get rich concentration from the berries. The vinification takes place with a partial carbonic maceration without the addition of enzymes, sulfites (at any point of winemaking), or selected yeasts; a truly natural wine. Getting the chance to meet this man a few weeks ago, I’d say eccentric would be an understatement. He had a big smile, a big beard, and you could tell, a big heart. I was immediately drawn to his wines: special creations.
2007 Altocedro Malbec, La Consulta, Mendoza, Argentina
We all love working in wine for many reasons. One is the insight it gives us into other cultures. Did you know that there is a huge Lebanese population in Argentina? I knew there were quite a few Italians, but this came as a surprise to me. This wine comes from a Lebanese winemaker Karim Mussi Saffie and his family located in the La Consulta area of the Uco Valley in Mendoza. This area is quickly becoming a hot spot for fantastic wines given its particularly high altitude (1,150 meters above sea level) and poor soils, perfect for wine production. The grapes are grown according to the tenets of sustainable agriculture from old vines, up to 70 years of age! The harvesting, sorting and crushing is all done by hand, with no machinery whatsoever used in the process. In addition the whole winery utilizes a gravity flow system developed over 100 years ago. This is truly traditional, artisanal Argentine winemaking. Interestingly the wine is actually a blend of 85% malbec and 15% tempranillo, not a combination we often see, but given the results I expect to see more in the future. Big, lush, rich but with a clean finish, this wine calls out for a juicy steak on the grill.
