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Amarone to Sforzato: A Veneto and Lombardy Abbondanza

Posted in Events, Wine Tastings on Thursday, February 19th, 2009 Tags: Amarone, Italian wine, lombardy, Sfursat, Valpolicella, Valtellina, Veneto, wine bottega, wine tasting
Feb 19
The Event Re-cap:

Wow!  Our first Regional Italian Extravaganza was a tremendous success.  Sixteen stunning wines were enjoyed by sixty very happy palates! Thank you to everyone who made last night such a great event.  We definitely achieved our goal of sharing an overall view of the characteristic styles of wine produced in these unique regions.  Many of you who tasted commented that you now felt like experts on Amarone and were eager to delve further into the world of Sforzato.  If you missed the event, here is the line-up (just to make you feel even worse…):Bubbles to begin, of course!

NV Bellavista Franciacorta Cuvee Brut D.O.C.G., Lombardy $50/$45/$40

Italy’s best-kept sparkling secret made in the Champagne method with chardonnay, pinot noir and pinot bianco.  Elegance personified.

Silky Whites…

2007 Prà Soave Classico D.O.C., Veneto $18/$16.20/$14.40

Enjoy the Soave renaissance from the region’s star producer.  Predominantly garganega, this wine marries citrus and earth beautifully.

2007 Ca Dei Frati, I Frati, Lugana D.O.C., Lombardy $28/$25.20/$22.40

You’ll never think of trebbiano the same way! This is a serious, full-bodied white produced by the fourth generation of the Dal Cero family. The flagship of the estate.

Lombardy Reds..

Welcome to the big boys of the alpine Valtellina, where the local nebbiolo (chiavennasca) creates a sublime counterpart to Barolo.

2000 Nera Grumello Riserva Valtellina Superiore D.O.C.G., Lombardy $35/$31.50/$28

The Sforzato di Valtellina D.O.C.G. (sforzato translates to strained) is a unique designation for wines made from nebbiolo grapes that have been allowed to ripen longer on the vine and then after picking are allowed to dry to concentrate their incredible flavor.

  • 2004 Nino Negri Sfursat , Sforzato di Valtellina D.O.C.G., Lombardy $50/$45/$40
  • 2003 Nera Sforzato di Valtellina D.O.C.G., Lombardy $49/$44.10/$39.20

Veneto Reds…

The holy trinity of the Veneto reds are corvina, rondinella and molinara. In the region of Verona a combination of these grapes is used to make both the Valpolicella D.O.C.,  in their bright fresh form,  and Amarone D.O.C. wines in which the grapes have been allowed to dry before pressing. Amarone is considered by many to be one of the four pillars of Italian wine along with Barolo, Brunello and Taurasi, truly lofty company! Rich, full-bodied and voluptuous, Amarone is a hedonistic wine best paired with hard cheeses, spiced nuts or rich roasted meats.

Pop culture: In the novel, The Silence of the Lambs, Hannibal Lecter eats the census taker’s liver with fava beans and a “big Amarone”, rather than a Chianti as in the film version.

2005 Brigaldara  Valpolicella Classico D.O.C. $17/$15.30/$13.60

A gem of a winery, founded by Stefano Cesari as a hobby in 1978.  The wine is absolutely charming made in a modern, fresh, clean style.

2004 Corte Marzago Le Bugne I.G.T. $34/$30.60/$27.20

From the eastern shore of lovely Lake Garda comes this spin on the traditional trinity, utilizing corvina along with sangiovese and cabernet sauvignon.  Organically produced and heading towards biodynamic.

1998 Quintarelli Rosso Ca’ del Merlo I.G.T. $88/$79.20/$70.40

Mythical, magical and awe-inspiring, the wines of Giuseppe Quintarelli are a unique and rare treasure. This wine is a single vineyard Valpolicella named after a plot of land where a large Merlo (bird) sat perched on a tree overlooking the hillside. It differs from the Valpolicella only in that the grapes come from one specific site, so you are allowed to taste the unique elements of the terroir in this particular vineyard.

2000 Santa Sofia Amarone della Valpolicella Classico D.O.C. $48/$43.20/$38.40

A tremendous value in Amarone!  Giancarlo Begnoni hand-crafts this wine with the help of his children in a gorgeous estate built by famed Palladio in 1560.
The next two wines are from Brigaldara; the winery who’s Valpolicella was tasted as well.  The fresh approachable house style is evident in the 2001 Amarone, which is aged in large oak casks.  The Single Vineyard Case Vecie, spends time in French barrique and is a step up in intensity and concentration.

  • 2001 Brigaldara Amarone della Valpolicella Classico D.O.C. $70/$63/$56
  • 2000 Brigaldara Amarone della Valpolicella Case Vecie D.O.C. $83/$74.70/$66.40
2000 Monte Faustino Amarone della Valpolicella Classico D.O.C.  $82/$73.80/$65.60

The four brothers Fabiano, Giorgio, Massimiliano and Paolo Fornaser are focused on making classically styled examples of the local wines.  This is a complex, savory meaty style of Amarone.

2004 Bussola Amarone della Valpolicella Classico D.O.C. $69/$62.10/$55.20

Years ago, Tommaso Bussola was named by Giuseppe Quintarelli as the region’s next super star, need we say more? He says his secret is his ancient vines, particularly the rare corvinone the “super-corvina”

1998 Musella Amarone della Valpolicella $55/$49.50/$44

The most “modern” of the Amarones shown tonight, produced by the Pasqua family who purchased and updated the estate in the 1990’s.  Silky edges and pristine fruit.

Back to Lombardy to finish up…

2007 Bruno Verdi Sangue di Giuda $20/$18/$16

Local legend has it that the name of this wine “Judas’ blood” was given by local friars who disapproved of the wines aphrodisiac effects!  A frothy slightly sweet delight made from uva rara and croatina.

1 Comment

  1. Dale Cruse on February 22nd, 2009

    What a terrific tasting this was! Kerri and her crew did an outstanding job of painting a picture of a specific region in Italy. So many other tastings are a bit of this and a bit of that with not much in common. The cohesion of this tasting was something all tastings should aspire to. I can’t wait for the next one!



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