Since the Middle Ages, Lombardy has been the epicenter of big Italian business, be it silk and textile manufacturing around Lake Como, banking in Milan or mining and metallurgy in Brescia.  In terms of a wine region Lombardy’s got it all!  From the refined bubbles of Franciacorta (Italy’s rival to Champagne) to the crisp and full white wines of Lake Garda, not to mention the regional endearing oddities of the Oltrepò Pavese with their unique fizzy fruit and the big boys of the alpine Valtellina, where the local nebbiolo (chiavennasca) creates a sublime counterpart to Barolo.  The quality revolution has come to Lombardy and today we find great examples of regional specialties once consumed only in local villages.  Be sure to try something new, a bonarda or perhaps a rare Sforzat!  Grab some taleggio and bresaola and finish winter off right.

1997 Contadi Castaldi Franciacorta Satèn, Adro, Franciacorta $26

Calling myself a connoisseur of fine sparkling wines sounds overly uptight, bubble slut on the other hand is a touch uncouth, let’s just say that I am a fan of the froth and to continue my alliteration, ferevently for Franciacorta.  What is Franciacorta you might say?  Alas, there is the pity.  Far too few are familiar with the joys of Italy’s most excellent of sparkling wines, no offense Prosecco, but we are playing in a different league here.  To put Franciacorta into perspective, it is often compared with Champagne.  It is true that both wines are made utilizing the same method, called “metodo classico” in Italy and both utilize chardonnay and pinot noir. However, Franciacorta has a considerably warmer climate, south of the foothills of the Alps and moderated by the region’s lakes.  The soils are gravel and sand versus the chalk found in France and pinot blanc, which gives fruity aromatics is often a player instead of pinot meunier.  The result is a rounder, more opulent style of sparkling that is a beautiful accompaniment to food.  This house has perfected the Satèn method, which translates to “silkiness” and utilizes only the white grapes.  It is a softer, less bubbly version of Franciacorta and would be unbelievable with a creamy mac and cheese.

2006 Bruno Verdi Riesling, Vigna Costa, Oltrepò Pavese $23

Tracing their roots in the Oltrepò Pavese back seven generations to the 18th century, the Verdi family started bottling their own estate wine after World War II. The tradition is carried on by Bruno’s son Paolo, who has brought the winery into the modern era while skillfully preserving tradition. The family’s vineyards are spread over the hillsides surrounding the village of Canneto Pavese, and different soil types benefit the cultivation of a number of grape varieties. The sources for the Riesling Renano, the Vigna Costa and Paradiso vineyards, contain a higher percentage of limestone and are located furthest from the winery. Harvested by hand, the grapes are picked into small lugs to prevent crushing or bruising. At the winery, they are gently pressed and fermented at cool temperatures to retain freshness. Approximately 20-25% of the Riesling Renano is fermented in large oak botte and that part is aged for 4-5 months in barrel, then the whole is bottled at the end of winter to capture delicious fresh, lively fruit and crisp mountain minerality.

2004 Conte Vistarino “Costa Del Nero” Pino Nero, Oltrepò Pavese $13

For generations the Vistarino family has been living amongst the rolling hills of Lombardy’s most productive wine region, the area just across the Po` river basin outside the town of Pavia know as the “Oltrepo` Pavese.  It was here in the late 1800’s that the first Pinot Nero or Pinot Noir was planted having been transported both stylistically and culturally from Burgundy.  Today Ottavio Vistarino is in charge of his family’s estate, which totals over 800 hectares, 180 of which are dedicated to vines bordered by forest and streams.  The Oltrepo` Pavese is a charming wine zone, most its production has historically been consumed locally by the people of Milan.  This is a rugged and cool area of Lombardy, with a more continental climate than even a few km away in Piedmont and the wine styles show this very well. If there is a “traditional” zone for Pinot Nero in all of Italy, the Oltrepo` is it!  This simple wine is farmed organically and vinified in stainless steel to preserve freshness; it demonstrates the cool climate terroir and versatility at the table of any great Italian wine.  

2006 Costaripa Le Manzane Benaco Bresciano Rosso, Moniga del Garda $24

In the picturesque lakeside village of Moniga del Garda, the conditions are almost magical, softly rolling hills, the gorgeous waters of Lake Garda and abundant sunshine.  South of the Swiss border and east of foggy, cool Piedmont, it is hard to imagine that this unique area has one of the world’s most northern Mediterranean climates, but in addition to grapevines, lemon trees, olive groves and cypresses are plentiful.  This small village is also blessed with Gambero Roso’s pick for 2008 winemaker of the year, Mattia Vezzola.  While for many years Mattia has been best known for his winemaking at Bellavista in Franciacorta, the Costaripa estate has belonged to his family since the 1940’s.  Here on this gentle slope (the translation of Costaripa), the family is committed to maximizing the potential of local indigenous grapes, such as this fragrant marzemino, the Mazane.  Although fairly obscure today, this lovely grape was lauded by Mozart in his Don Giovanni.  The wine is elevated solely in stainless steel to preserve its silky tannins, delicate floral aromatics and fresh red fruit.  A beautiful accompaniment to the fresh perch caught on the waters of Lake Garda.

2002 Caven Inferno “Al Carmine”  Valtellina Superiore $30

In 1982 the cantina of Caven Camuna was born when Francesco, successor of the neighboring cantina Nera, founded by his grandfather, decided to branch out and begin winemaking on his own, with a slightly more modern.  The Valtellina is Lombardy’s most important wine making sub-region. Known to many as Italy’s winter playground the “Alta Valtellina” is centered around the small town of Sondrio, located roughly 90 miles north of Milan.  There are five subzones that make up the DOCG Superiore appellation: Sassella, Grumello, Inferno, Valgella, and Maroggia, each representing a single denominated vineyard site with multiple owners and wine producers having holdings in each.  Caven’s “Al Carmine” bottling comes from his 5 hectares of vine in the Inferno vineyard, and is the smallest subzone in the Valtellina.  The wine style of the Valtellina is unique, being on the banks of the river Adda, which flows to Lake Como, the high altitude vines rely on direct sunlight and residual heat absorbed by the stone terraces to achieve ripeness.  The grape of choice is nebbiolo, but of course goes by the local name of “Chiavennasca”. The Valtellina’s finest and most noble wine “Sforzat” is crafted much like an Amarone, where the grapes are partially dried before vinification to truly “focus” the wine.  Unlike much of Italy, 2002 was a watershed vintage in the Valtellina, one that truly put them on the map with the best examples easily dwarfing the best that Barolo had to offer.    

2000 Martilde “Ghiro d’Inverno”, Bonarda, Oltrepo` Pavese $42

Martilde is a small husband and wife winery in the Oltrepò Pavese that is dedicated to making small production, organic wines that are typical to the region.  After leaving the busy city life of Milan this couple has settled in with many family pets amongst the vines, 18 ha of them to be exact.  Located in Rovescala the sandy, calceous-clay soils are typical and ideal for grape growing.  The majority of Martilde’s wines are based on the local croatina grape called Bonarda once vinified, but there are also vines of Riesling, Malvasia, and Pinot Nero.  In 1993 a new “experiment” was embarked upon, one which many winemakers in the region had never done, that is to create an age worthy and very complex Bonarda.  The oldest and best vines of croatina were selected for this bottling, which is only made is the most exceptional of years.  The croatina is vinified through malolactic fermentation in stainless steel then passed into small French barriques, none of which are new.  This is then aged for a year before release having spent some extra time in the bottle.  2000 was a particularly dense year, creating a wine of tremendous depth with the ability to age for years to come. A “Ghiro” is a small animal that sleeps a lot, here a representation of the husband on a long winter’s night! Braise some meat and finish out winter the right way!!