Tonight we’ve got a line-up of superheroes- wines that come from humble beginnings and save the day with their uncanny abilities. Big bang for the buck, great to drink on their own or with food, and there’s even some X-ray vision- these wines are windows to their terroir. And since they’re here at the Wine Bottega you know they’re fighting for truth and justice, vanquishing the minions of evil (those wines spewed from the factories at the behest of masked marketing departments and shady multinational conglomerates). In times like these, we need some wines to take a stand. And like a good comic book, we can take comfort that you can still find something for a just a little bit of change that makes the troubles of the day fade away.
2007 Pares Balta, Blanc des Pacs Penedes, Spain $12
Located in the Penedes Region of Spain, Southwest of Barcelona, this is a family owned winery with serious aspirations. They produce an incredible range of wines, from their sparkling cavas, refreshing whites and high-end reds The family has practiced organic viticulture since 1790 and their vineyards were certified in 2004. Three generations of the Cusine family still work on the estate, including the grandfather Joan Cusine Hill, born in 1917, who started working in the vineyards when he was 7 years old. His son and two grandsons now manage the business and are ably aided in this task by their enologist spouses, Marta Cases and Maria Elena Jimenez, who make the wines with a focus on elegance and concentration. The Blanc de Pacs was first produced in 1980 and continues to be a blend of grapes traditional used in cava production, parellada, xarel-lo and macabeo. The wine is fermented entirely in stainless steel to preserve its fresh fruit character.
2007 Catena “Tilia” Chardonnay Mendoza, Argentina $10
The story of this wine begins in 1898, when Nicola Catena sailed from famine in Italy to start a new life in Mendoza. Nicolas believed that he had found the viticultural promise land and planted his first vines in 1908. His grandson, Nicolas left Argentina in the early 1980’s to become a visiting professor of economics at University of California, Berkeley. He was so inspired by the wines produced in California, that he returned home with a passionate dedication to produce world-class wines in Mendoza. As the region was then known for inexpensive bulk wines he was considered completamente loco by his peers. Catena is now considered the preminent Argetine producer and while they make incredible high-end wines, they also dedicate their passion and attention to detail to their value wines. The Tilia (Latin for Linden, a tree that grows widely in Mendoza) Chardonnay is sourced from the Libertad Vineyard in Eastern Mendoza. The vines are an average of 60 years old and are cooled by the nearby Tunuyan River, producing a vibrant, complex Chardonnay. The wine sees a combination of stainless steel and French oak, which gives just an extra dollop of creaminess, while keeping the wine light on its feet.
2006 Red Head Studios “Yard Dog” McLaren Vale, Australia $12.00
Don’t judge a book by its cover and don’t judge a wine by its label. This is a fabulous find produced by Red Heads Studio in McLaren Vale, South Australia. The studio was originally a bar frequented by young winemakers. Most of them, having recently received degrees in enology, would commiserate over the long, monotonous days working for large wine companies. The idea sprang up, probably after a couple of pints, to convert the bar into a winemaking studio, where winemakers could hone their skills and make small batch wines in the style of their choosing. The Yard Dog is the first project to be released from Red Head Studios and the energy, talent and enthusiasm of its creators is evident. The wine is 55% Petit Verdot, a grape varietal commonly used in Bordeaux blends to add a punch of spice and color. One rarely finds it as the dominant player, but this wine is a clear call to promote petit verdot from supporting cast to headliner. The blend is rounded out with cabernet sauvignon and merlot, and the result is a rich, bold wine with plenty of punch.
2007 Guidobono Barbera d’Alba Piedmont, Italy $12
While little is known about the auspices of this wine producer what has been proven over the last several vintages is that he or she really knows what they are doing!! (We at the WB think that a high profile Barolo/Barbaresco producer is using the title “Guidobono” as a guise to protect their identity. In any case the wine is a star! It is made from 100% Barbera grapes coming from the communes surrounding Alba, a small town in Piedmont. Barbera is Piedmont’s workhorse grape, one that traditionally was made into “everyday” wine, and that is exactly what you have here. In the past few years Barbera has become pretty fashionable, sometimes being aged in expensive French barriques with lavish extraction and a final high- gloss shine; but Guidobono is more of a Barbera of old, little to no wood, more rustic in style, made interesting by its bright acidity and fresh fruitiness. This is a great table wine; pizza anyone??!!
2006 El Quintanal Ribera del Duero, Spain $15
The El Quintanal project began in 2004 and is the result of small cooperative of Ribera del Duero growers putting their best fruit in the hands of winemaker Oscar Aragón from the cult, family- owned winery Cillar de Silos. The powerful wines of this region reflect the rocky, rugged landscape softened by the majestic Duero River. The aim of the El Quintanal project is to tame the wildness of the area and make a fruity and easy-drinking tempranillo with just a touch of barrel ageing to soften the wine further and make it ready for drinking now. The result is a resounding success and a ridiculous value! The perfect wine for post- shoveling winter warmth.
2006 Azienda Agricola Alberto Longo, Là Mia Primitivo, Puglia, Italy $19
Alberto Longo was once a banker living the fast paced life in Milan. Alberto then had a vision and a calling to his homeland of Puglia (the “breadbasket” of Italy). Longo has dedicated himself and his team to harvesting and producing natural wines that represent the beauty of this sun baked southern Italian region. The estate has been in existence since 1800 run by the important Lucerino family the Cavalli, and is made up of 35 hectares that are meticulously hand treated with respect for nature and with quality wine in mind. This is the land of the ancient and mysterious Dauni people, likely of Greek origin and masters of ceramics. While Alberto is the visionary the enology work is carried out by a master woman wine maker, Graziani Grassini. Since 2004 she has been in charge of all things in the cantina, from first crush to bottling. This cuvee comes from a small property that was once Alberto’s father’s. It is 100% Primitivo, a native to Puglia though likely of Croatian origin, and sees no oak. Dark and brooding you can sense that the ancient Dauni people would have been proud.
