It is a tradition in Southern Italy and now of Italian Americans to celebrate the night before Christmas with the Feast of the Seven Fishes also known as La Vigilia .The tradition of eating seafood on Christmas Eve dates from the medieval Catholic tradition of abstinence. Meat, butter and other milk products were not allowed on Fridays or other Holy Days. Instead fish, typically fried in oil, would be served. This tradition has evolved and now the lush feast seems a far cry from any sort of abstinence! While the exact dishes vary from family to family, there are always some seven combinations of anchovies, sardines, dried salt cod, smelts, eels, squid, octopus, shrimp, mussels, oysters, and clams.
We have sought out a fabulous line-up of seafood friendly Italian wines, expanding beyond just the Southern climes to include some Northern favorites as well. From fresh and fruity to minerally and complex to lush and smoky, we look forward to opening your eyes to the wide range of wines that will compliment your Feast of the Seven Fishes.
NV Sorelle Bronca Brut Prosecco, Veneto, Italy $17.00
You always need bubbles to start a celebration! Prosecco hails from the Veneto, the area around Venice, the most romantic city in the world. In every wine bar, pizza place and seafood bistro bubbles flow freely. It is particularly delightful with the area’s famous fritto misto, a platter of gloriously light fried seafood. The Sorelle (which means sisters) is made by two sisters, Antonia and Ersiliana, who inherited the family business and are committed to taking it to new heights. Ersilisana’s daughter, Elisa, just graduated with a degree in enology from Padua University and has joined the team as well. The wine is fresh and fruity, with honeydew melon bursting from the glass. The wine is made from the prosecco grape in special tanks, which trap the carbon dioxide released during fermentation to give it the characteristic sparkle.
2007 Bibi Graetz “Casamatta Bianco” Tuscany, Italy $14.00
Bibi Graetz is a notable young winemaker with a passion for small, handcrafted and luxurious wines. From a very artistic family, Bibi received his diploma from the Acadamy of Fine Arts in Florence and has since transferred his creativity into his vineyard and wines. Located primarily in Fiesole, a small hamlet above Florence (actually in the fraction know as Vincigliata) that has not been historically considered for the production of vines, Bibi had the intuition to understand and realize the potential of this area for viticulture. Bibi owns just over 4 hectares here and directly manages some 10 hectares around Fiesole and also on the Tuscan coast and Island of Gigli. Casamatta Bianco is a production that is intended for the “everyday” type of enjoyment. The vermentino (roughly 90%) and moscato bianco (10%) are growing around the town of Grosseto and are vinified in stainless steel before a brief aging at the cantina before release. 2007 was a great vintage and this is a great fish paring; light, crisp, with good acidity. Coastal wine, coastal food.
2007 Institute Agricole Regional, Müller-Thurgau, Valle D’Aosta, Italy $21.00
The study, preservation and innovation of agrarian products is the central focus of the IAR. Beginning in 1951 as a three semester professional seminar regarding the traditional agriculture of the alpine valley known as the “Valle D’Aosta” in extreme north-western Italy (leading to France by way of Mont Blanc) the program has grown into a 5 year scholastic Institute. Students can enroll directly after secondary school while other programs are aimed at involving local farmers and professionals. The practices of organic and sustainable alpine agriculture are fundamental to the vision of the school. Products ranging from potatoes to orchard fruit to wine are cultivated using indigenous varietals. Muller-Thurgau is a hybrid white grape created by Hermann Muller from the Swiss canton of Thurgau in 1882. The cross was a successful attempt to combine the early ripening qualities of Sylvaner with the intensity and complexity of Riesling. Grown at an altitude of 850 meters with a 70% pitch of south-east exposure on soil composed mostly of lime, argilla, sand and schist this wine must be a bear to harvest! The wine is aged in stainless steel and sees oak only briefly. This wine will gladly accompany the grilled/smoked fish antipasto you’ll be enjoying!!
2004 Colli di Lapio di Romano Clelia Fiano di Avellino, Campania, Italy $30.00
In the past few years there has been a rediscovery of many of the ancient indigenous white grapes of Campania. The cool, windblown slopes of Campania’s bleak mountains host some of the most spectacular vineyards in Italy, planted to varietals that have been cultivated since the time of the ancient Greeks. The organic estate of Clelia Romano is from vineyards around the Lapio village, northeast of Avellino. This is considered the “grand cru” growing area for the white varietal Fiano. This wine, vinified entirely in stainless steel, is pure class and elegance, with a vibrant acidity that gives it the potential to evolve over a decade into a golden-hued and mineral-ly wine that echoes the qualities of grand cru Chablis. With 4 years of age, this wine is starting to develop a honey-ed voluptuousness that is stunning. This can easily stand up to a grilled swordfish skewers.
2004 Sella & Mosca Cannonau di Sardegna Riserva, Italy $15.00
Cannonau is the same as Spain’s Garnacha (and France’s Grenache) and was brought there during the 14th century when the island of Sardinia was part of the Spanish empire. Grenache produces wines of significant heft in Châteauneuf du Pape in France’s southern Rhône valley, throughout the Languedoc region and in Roussillon. In Spain, it is an important variety in Priorat as well as other coastal regions. Sardinia’s best vineyards are located in the small valleys interspersed throughout the hills. The grapes for this wine are sourced from the estate’s best vineyards in the NW corner of the island near Alghero. Sella & Mosca, founded in 1889, is the island’s largest and arguably its most important producer and is considered to rank among the finest in all of Italy. Try this with the classic Sardinian dish of hearty cuttlefish stew!
2006 Bianco Aldo Langhe Nebbiolo, Piedmont, Italy $29.00
A year ago I read an article, which suggested that the nebbiolo grape, most famous for being the grape of Barolo and Barbaresco, was a great accompaniment to sushi. Of course, I immediately scoffed in disdain! Was this person insane? Nebbiolo is one of the most savory and tannic grapes on the planet. Sushi likes riesling and other crisp whites. So, I tried it and am now incapable of having sushi without it. It still seemed strange to me until I travelled to the Piedmont and feasted on raw meat and raw sausages at almost every meal. When you think about, the fatty richness of tuna and salmon is quite similar to that of raw veal or pork. Add some soy sauce and it’s umami heaven. Now about this wine specifically… made by elderly Aldo Bianco, this wine is simply beautiful. It is the purest expression of this exquisite grape that I have ever experienced. He is a tiny producer and quite elderly and unfortunately his son has no interest in carrying on the family business, so every additional vintage we receive is a gift. With vineyards right next to Gaja’s, his vines will quickly be snatched up and the prices will sky rocket. Try it while you can!
2006 Tenuta delle Terre Nerre Calderara Sottana, Sicily $50.00
Sometimes I am amazed that any of the Terre Nerre wines actually get sold to customers and not horded by the Wine Bottega staff! On the far east side of the island of Sicily is a place altogether unique: the wine region of Mount Etna. Etna has been a prized winegrowing location for hundreds, if not thousands, of years (and it’s been an active volcano for longer; its last major eruption was in winter 2002). The dark volcanic soil is rich in minerals and drains well, while the climate up at 2,600 to 4,000 feet allows for lots of sun exposure during the summer along with plunging night temperatures to retain acidity. Thousand-year-old terraces run along the sides of the mountain, supporting gnarled old vines. It’s a show of new confidence in the region that America’s most famous importer of Italian wines, Marc De Grazia, who knows Italian wine as well as any living human, chose Etna as the place to begin his own wine project. This single vineyard nerello mascalese will open your eyes to a whole new world of great wine! Often compared to Barolo and Burgundy, but with volcanic hints, this is a true show stopper. Try it with cioppino!
