Terry Theise is known as a prophet, a master, a hedonist, a glutton, a dork. He is celebrated for his exceptionally expressive wine descriptions that venture far from the "hints of blackberry and cocoa" that inundate mainstream wine reviews. Sex, drugs, music, religion and just about anything else are fair game for his eloquent and witty tangents which have led many to look at wine in a whole new way. He is also this year’s recipient of the prestigious James Beard Foundation Medal for the Nation’s Outstanding Wine and Spirits Professional for his role as a champion of small-producers making "real" wines. We are extremely pleased to have Derek Whitaker with us this evening to guide us through the tasting. Derek works with Atlantic Importing Co. and is one of Boston’s most respected wine experts (and a great guy!). We are sure he will dazzle you with his extensive knowledge of these wines from Austria and Germany.
NV Bründlmayer Brut Rose, Langelois, Austria $47
Weingut Brundlmayer is generally considered to be Austria’s best winery based on their consistency in producing a stunning range of wines year after year. This is an incredibly unique wine as it is a sparkler made from a blend of Pinot Noir (a traditional ingredient in Champagne), with two of Austria’s signature red grapes, St. Laurent and Zweigelt. It is a favorite of winemaker Willi’s lovely wife Edwige and we are so happy she insisted on its production.
2007 Berger Gruner Veltliner, Neiderösterreich, Austria $14
Proclaimed the best value of the vintage. The perfect wine for a party! Not to sound like the Bud Light campaign, but this wine is all about drinkability. Like the ideal party guest, this wine is delightful, charming, but does not insist on being the star of the show, you just know you were happier for having them there. Interesting, delicious and a fabulous value, did you notice it’s a liter bottle? Hurry and snatch it up while you still can.
2006 Bründlmayer Gruner Veltliner Alte Reben $56
The much beloved and respected Willi Brundlmayer feels that this vintage is as good as the epic 1997 and better than any since, which trust us, is saying something! Certain wines defy being broken down into the individual components of fruit, acidity, alcohol, etc. but rather appear in your head like a work of art: sculpture, painting or music. The Brundlmayer wines have been compared to a Stradivarius as they have such beautiful “tone” and “acoustics”. Take a sip and listen to what plays in your mind. Perhaps you will agree that it is a symphony of mineral density and peppery brilliance.
2007 Hirsch Rielsing Zobing, Kamptal, Austria $27
Named the hands down winery of the vintage. The extremely well-tasted Terry Theise said that he has never tasted Rieslings like these in Austria, or anywhere for that matter. There is no way I could say this better myself so here you go right from the master himself “Every wine is in some sort of beatified glow of ecstatic complexity, mineral density and divine fruit.” I have often found that whites that are produced bio-dynamically have this ability to transport your palate to another planet, and this one further supports my theory. The man behind the wines, Johannes Hirsch is incredibly funny and also possesses a keenly inquisitive and probing mind. He seeks the truth from his wine, equally looking forward to the future but also back on what can be learned from the past. This “entry-level” riesling he offers is a lesson in how something delicate can have incredible strength and power.
2006 Sattler St. Laurent, Burgenland, Austria $21
A très hip grape folks. It’s Pinot Noir-ish with a “sauvage” touch – think sagey wildness. If you love good Burgundy, but can’t afford to drink it regularly then this is the wine for you. Erich Sattler is not a man who seeks to grab your attention, but rather one who merely seeks to bring you pleasure. He is about making wine that tastes good and invites you to keep sipping. The St. Laurent grape is notoriously difficult to grow properly even more so than finicky Pinot Noir. When Eric was asked why he put up with this grape, his response was “Yes, it’s a diva, but we wouldn’t love it so much if it weren’t such a bitch to grow.” See if you fall under its (or Eric’s) spell.
2007 Selbach –Oster Zeltinger Sonnenuhr Riesling Auslese “Rotlay” Mosel, Germany $65
The wines from Selbach-Oster are known for having an amazing sense of not just terroir, but also home. These are wines that were raised well by caring parents that instilled in them the virtues of patience, honor and intelligence. They are wines with a clear purpose and identity. These are not wines that try to show off or act up. They are meant to be enjoyed over a dinner with your friends and family as they enfold you in their presence and welcome you into their family as well. And this is a family you would love to be a part of! This Auslese hales from the Zeltinger Sonnenuhr vineyard, which is a site about as good as it gets. To add a cherry onto that sundae, the Rotlay parcel is the single best parcel within the vineyard. It is steep (45 to 60 degrees!) barren, rocky and thus must be worked only by hand. The resulting wines are mesmerizing, explosive, intense but also “zen-tender”, generous and endlessly complex. This is a truly special treat.
